Mast Down, Sheaves Out, and Wiring Nightmares
Not every refit weekend brings good news. I set out planning to fit the new halyards and finally get the running rigging sorted, but instead I ended up pulling the mast off the boat.
The sheaves at the base of the mast, which I thought just needed replacing, turned out to be completely seized. Solid. No amount of WD-40 or gentle persuasion was going to get them turning, so the mast had to come down. It’s now resting on top of the boat, which makes getting around a bit awkward, but it’s only temporary. Once I had the mast down and could properly measure the parts, I found out that nobody makes sheaves in this exact size anymore. Of course. So I broke out the calipers, fired up the 3D printer, and made my own set. Not quite the simple job I had in mind for the weekend, but at least I know they’ll fit perfectly.
With the mast down, I took the opportunity to tackle a few other jobs. I replaced a waterlogged navigation light and then turned my attention to the wiring. And wow. I knew the electrical system was bad, but I didn’t realise quite how bad until I started tracing wires. The previous owner had used 1.5mm domestic house wiring (brown and blue cables like you’d find in a wall socket) for everything. That might fly in a kitchen, but on a 12V DC system it’s completely wrong. There’s no live and neutral here! Everything is getting replaced with correctly sized, marine-grade red and black wire.
I’ve now ripped out every inch of the old wiring and started designing a new control panel from scratch. It’s a lot of work, but it feels good to be building a system I can actually trust. And let’s be honest: if I didn’t fix this now, it would probably have come back to haunt me at sea.
For now, the boat looks a bit like a science experiment with wires hanging everywhere and the mast lying across the deck, but this is progress. Sometimes you have to go backwards to go forwards, and I’d rather discover all this on the hardstanding than halfway down the Thames.
Sidebar: Why House Wiring and Boats Don’t Mix
Domestic wiring is designed for fixed installations at 230V AC, where a blue “neutral” and brown “live” make sense. On a 12V DC boat system, polarity matters, vibration is constant, and moisture is inevitable. Household cables aren’t tinned to resist corrosion, the insulation isn’t rated for marine conditions, and a single bad connection can create resistance that eats away at both efficiency and safety.
Marine-grade wire uses tinned copper strands, colour codes (red for positive, black for negative), and high-quality insulation designed for a damp, salty environment. Switching to proper wiring means fewer voltage drops, easier troubleshooting, and a much lower chance of your boat turning into a floating bonfire.
Next up: a custom-built electrical control panel, brand-new halyards, and (hopefully) getting the mast back where it belongs.



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